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From the runway

ANIMAL INSTINCT: Burberry Spring/Summer 2022 Womenswear Presentation

Discover the details and accessories from the presentation.

28/09/2021

Riccardo Tisci’s Burberry presented its Spring/Summer 2022 womenswear collection titled “Animal Instinct” at London Fashion Week, spotlighting heritage staples and fresh abstract prints. The presentation unveiled digitally and is a certified carbon neutral event through Burberry’s Regeneration Fund, in the house’s effort to be Climate Positive by 2040.

THE COLLECTION

The iconic Burberry trench coat is deconstructed and rebuilt in strong and striking silhouettes that experiment and play with volume. Styles in a blend of classic Burberry gabardine and textural linen cotton are cropped at the back to reveal swimsuits animated with abstract prints. Signature outerwear in soft fawn and dark biscuit shades is transformed through daring detailing, from exaggerated lapels to chain-link embellishments, sleeveless proportions to raw hems. A sense of fluidity is brought to the trench and car coat through fluted and oversized sleeves on collarless and hooded shapes, plus capelets that are perforated or trimmed with leather – reinvigorating the traditional with a twist of youthful energy.

A kaleidoscope of geometric and experimental abstract prints – evoking the flowing forms of camouflage – and the ‘Universal Passport’ graphic adorn dresses and shirts, layered under printed sheer or mesh tops to create new harmonies of pattern. Geometric colour-block intarsia and prints on dresses and oversized sleeveless blazers.

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Freedom of movement is explored though flowing cap-sleeved and halterneck gowns with thigh-high splits. Mini dresses are adorned with sweeping exaggerated fringing, frills and straps, and paired with juxtaposing oversized jackets.

An unstructured approach to British tailoring sees boxy-fit blazers reworked in sleeveless and backless cuts. Lapels are reconstructed as scarves to wrap over the shoulder. A chest plate with boned corsetry is subversively recast in smooth leather or as a hoodie in technical neoprene with a peplum hem.

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In contrast to the oversized proportions, there are sexy figure-hugging silhouettes in stretch technical fabrications – exuding a mood of confidence that underpins the looks and elevates stand-alone pieces. Vivid and light bodysuits and leggings are layered with tactile mohair-blend capelets and animal-inspired fringing – challenging the conventional. Long-sleeved tops and leggings with porthole cut-outs and chain-link details. Off-the-shoulder ribbed knitwear is worn with crop tops with cut-out details, and stirrup leggings with seam details and toe loops. A bodysuit in crystal net and tulle.

BAGS

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Introducing the Rhombi, a new ellipse-shaped shoulder bag inspired by the abstract curved prints in the collection. The structured shape is sculpted to the body and features a lightly padded strap with an oversized clasp detail. Presented in a smooth leather in soft fawn and black, and in coated canvas in birch brown check. Inspired by the iconic trench coat, a style in cotton gabardine features signature double stitching. Clutch iterations include black leather with ring-pierced details or metallic fringing, both with an oversized clasp handle. Joining the style is a cut-out Thomas Burberry Monogram in quilted nappa leather in black and soft fawn.

The Olympia bag evolves. A signature style for the house, it has a crescent curve and an athletic aura which is developed for this season in a softer shape in leather, with a circular strap.

SHOES

Square-toe calf leather sandals, with and without a toe-ring detail, feature a press-stud T-bar and buckled ankle strap – a minimalist style to leave feet bare. Set on a slim high heel or a flat leather sole in black, white and soft fawn. The simple shape also comes as an exaggerated over-the-knee sock boot with an open toe, in black.

ACCESSORIES

Conceptual shaped panels in neoprene, leather and layered tulle are fixed to cotton baseball caps. Thick, soft leather chokers with porthole details in black and soft fawn. Palladium-plated rings and toe rings are worn in multiples with concealed double-finger bands creating the appearance of floating crystal embellishments and chain links. Leather and palladium-plated clasps become hoop earrings, and the signature buckled belt from the trench coat is reworked as a bracelet in black leather with ring-pierced details.

KEY PRINTS

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Abstract shapes are layered in vivid tones or mirrored in monochrome. Tortoiseshell and camouflage prints provide a complement. The ‘Universal Passport’ design is reconstructed and stretched.

KEY COLOURS

Neutral shades of soft fawn and Burberry beige with rich dark birch brown, warm walnut, black and white. Accents of bubblegum pink, plus yellow, orange and red in prints.

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