From the runway
CHANEL 2021/22 Métiers d’art collection celebrates the artisanship of fashion
The collection was shown at CHANEL’s newly launched le19M.
What better way to discover le19M, an immense space imagined by CHANEL and designed by architect Rudy Ricciotti to welcome the House’s artisan partners, than to organise the 2021/22 Métiers d’art show there. Indeed it is here at le19M – 19 for the 19th arrondissement of Paris and one of Gabrielle Chanel’s emblematic numbers – that the embroiderers Lesage and Atelier Montex, the goldsmith Goossens, the hatter Maison Michel, the feather worker Lemarié, the pleater Lognon, and the shoemaker Massaro are now gathered: “It’s a vast, very open space, with a façade adorned with threads of white concrete, a garden, beautiful walkways, and a large gallery where exhibitions will also be held,” explains Virginie Viard. “I asked Dimitri Chamblas to choreograph the film that will be presented before the show. The invitation box includes a collection of texts by the rappers Claude MC Solaar and Abd Al Malik, and writers such as Sarah Chiche, Anne Berest and Nina Bouraoui, recounting their vision of the Maisons d’art residing at le19M. There’s also a series of postcards taken from the animated films created by REMEMBERS. I wanted each model, drawn by a different illustrator, to represent one of the Maisons d’art and evolve in a little story inspired by a CHANEL icon. I wanted to illustrate each House as best as possible, but with a twist.”
This Métiers d’art collection is “very metropolitan yet sophisticated, with tweed jackets with sweatshirt sleeves, graffiti-style embroidery in coloured beads by Lesage, voluminous purple or royal blue knit Bermuda short-outfits, and casual coats worn open. Many of the embroideries are inspired by the structure of the building itself, such as those by Montex, which are very graphic and in silver sequins.” In terms of accessories, two-tone beige and black Mary-Janes with heels adorned with large pearls at the top, and long gloves in leather, worn with a mix of jewellery. “Finally, before the show, small groups of guests accompanied by models wearing looks from the collection will be able to enter one of the ateliers to discover the world and the exceptional savoir-faire of these Houses.”
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